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Prosecco Area
If a wine is unforgettable after the first taste, one is most surely
talking about the Prosecco of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene.
The production zone extends through the band of hills of the
Province of Treviso and encompasses the area between the towns of
Conegliano and Valdobbiadene.
The zone encompasses a series of hill chains which follow one after
the other from the lowlands to the Pre-Alps, lying equidistant
between the sheltering Dolomites to the north and the Adriatic,
which has a positive effect on the climate and countryside.
While Conegliano plays host to famous wine institutes, Valdobbiadene
is surely the zone’s productive heart.
Venice is only 50 kilometres away and is easily reached by either
train or car in a little over half an hour.
The production zone comprises the territory of 15 communities and
covers an area of approximately 18,000 hectares (approx. 45,000
acres) of cultivated land. Vines, however, are grown only on the
south-facing slopes of the hills at an altitude of 50 - 500 metres
(approx. 165 - 1650 ft.) above sea level, while the north-facing
slopes are often covered with woods.
There are currently more than 4,300 hectares (approx. 9,750 acres)
entered in the DOC Register which are worked by 5,000 producers. Of
these hectares, 106 belong to Superiore di Cartizze which, every
year, produces more than a million bottles of the finest sparkling
wine.
The steep slopes of the hills make it difficult to mechanize the
work and consequently managing the vineyards has almost always been
left in the hands of small growers.
Only towards Conegliano does one find a few of the larger producers.
As to the number of wineries, however, there has been a steady
growth: numerous new entrepreneurs have gradually joined the ranks
of producers which already counted among them four cooperatives and
15 large sparkling wine houses.
It is truly thanks to this large peaceful army of men and the love
they have for their land that it has been possible to conserve these
hills.
The many embankments, ramps and terraces have slowly moulded the
sunny faces of the hills over the centuries, indelibly modifying
their profiles.
The
grape variety
Viticulture in the hills of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene dates back to
ancient times evidenced by the work of man who has, over the
centuries, sculpted the sunniest slopes. The Prosecco vine has been
cultivated on these hills for over two hundred years.
Since the beginning of the XIX century, with the foundation of The
School of Viticulture and Oenology and The Experimental Centre for
Viticulture, both in Conegliano, research into this vine variety has
greatly increased and the Prosecco has spread throughout the area.
The exact origins of this variety are somewhat of a mystery, but
some would have it that it was, in fact, already known as the
‘Pucino’ in the time of the Roman Empire. The Empress Livia Augusta
was particularly fond of the wine from this grape.
It is certain, however, that for at least two centuries the hills of
Conegliano-Valdobbiadene have provided an ideal environment for the
cultivation of Prosecco where a whole series of biotypes became
widespread. One of these, the Prosecco Balbi, was the result of
clonal selection carried out by Count Balbi Valier in the second
half of the last century and is in fact still cultivated today.
This first documented case of selection has been followed up, over
the last twenty years, by a tremendous amount of work on clonal
selection done by The Experimental Institute for Viticulture. This
research is aimed at safeguarding the typicity of the product while
at the same time adapting the variety to the differing growing
conditions found in the hills of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene.
The Prosecco is a vigorous and hardy vine, with nut-coloured shoots
and quite large, loosely-packed winged clusters of beautiful golden
yellow berries nestled amongst large bright green leaves.
The
Prosecco is the vine
which guarantees the base structure of the wine of
Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, but Verdiso, Perera and Bianchetta, vine
varieties which are considered to be of lesser stature, can be used
up to a maximum of 15%. In some years and in certain zones, they can
contribute, on account of their specificity, to the organolectic
balance of Prosecco.
The
Verdiso is
documented as having been present in the Conegliano zone as early as
1700; by the XIX century it was already widely grown with its
production exceeding that of every other variety in the zone.
Used in the vinification of Prosecco to increase its acidity and
sapidity, Verdiso plays an important role in balancing its acid
component in hot years.
The
Perera, a variety
cited as already being grown in the Treviso province in the last
century, was used in small quantities in the vinification of
Prosecco, above all in the Valdobbiadene zone, to enhance its
perfume and aroma.
Some say that its ‘strange’ name comes from the very particular
taste of its pulp (that is to say the taste of ‘pera’, the Italian
word for ‘pear’) although it more likely owes its name to the shape
of the berry, which resembles that of an upturned pear.
The
Bianchetta, a vine
mentioned by name as early as the XVI century and claimed by some
authers to be indigenous to the Treviso area, was used, on account
of its early maturation, to ‘refine and polish’ the Prosecco,
especially in cold years. This is why it was often grown, together
with Verdiso, in the higher and less accessible zones.
The
winemaking process
This is how the production of Prosecco DOC happens:
The harvest: An important moment closely followed by the
Tutelary Consortium which checks the maturity of the grapes, gives
the latest advice to the producers and, during a public meeting
attended by the growers, gives the go-ahead for the harvest to begin
in the various zones.
The pressing: this takes place when the grapes, harvested by
hand and gathered from the various vineyards, are transported to the
winery, where the work of vinification begins.
The pressing is accomplished by highly sophisticated equipment which
presses the grapes very gently so that only the free-run juice from
the heart of the berry is extracted. The Disciplinary Rules dictate
that a maximum of 70 litres (approx. 15.4 imp. gal.) of wine may be
obtained from 100 kg. (about 220 lb.) of grapes. From the still damp
pomace (skins), the perfumed and light Prosecco grappa is distilled.
The decantation: after the pressing, the turbid must (juice)
is left to rest in stainless steel tanks chilled to a temperature of
5-10° C (41-50° F).
After approximately 10-12 hours, the limpid part of the must has
separated from the deposits and fermentation begins.
The vinification: this comes about thanks to yeasts which
provoke alcoholic fermentation. Vinification takes about 15-20 days
and is completed in stainless steel vats kept at a constant
temperature of 18-20° C (65-68° F).
Grapes coming from a single vineyard are usually vinified together
and the wineries keep the different lots separate.
The foaming: this takes place after the base wine has become
limpid.
Only then can the process of becoming a sparkling wine begin, an
operation in which style, taste and the experience of the oenologist
play a decisive role.
After a careful tasting of the various lots of base wine, the
different vattings are assembled: the wines, which have until this
point been kept separately due to their different origins, moments
of harvesting and organolectic characteristics are now carefully
assembled in precise proportions, so as to achieve a perfect balance
of all the components.
Only a few rare lots made from grapes from particular crus (single
vineyards), which while still in the vineyard appeared to be endowed
with a distinct style or a perfect balance, are made into sparkling
wines purely on their own.
The bottling: different types of bottles are used according
to the type of wine being bottled, the ‘Renana’ (Rhenish) or the
‘Borgognona’ (Burgundian) bottle for the ‘Tranquillo’ (still wine),
the ‘Champagnotta’ (Champagne) bottle for ‘Frizzante’
(semi-sparkling wine) and the classic Prosecco bottle for ‘Spumante’
(sparkling wine). All of the bottles are green in colour to ensure
that the wine is not damaged by light. After 30-40 days, the wine is
ready to be released to market.
Styles and serving suggestions
The various
types
The Prosecco of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene was thus borne of few, but
precise rules that guarantee its uniqueness and authenticity and
from a tradition that, while adapting to change, has managed to
retain a distinct and unmistakable indentity over the years.
Whether still, semi-sparkling or fully sparkling, the Prosecco DOC
of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene is recognizable by its pale straw-yellow
colour, its moderate body and its exclusively fruity and floral
aroma. Follows a brief description of the characteristics of the
various types of wine produced.
Sparkling
Prosecco DOC of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene
The Sparkling Prosecco gives full expression to its character, which
is at once, both agile and energetic and is produced principally in
two versions, the Extra Dry and the Brut. In the former,
refermentation is interrupted while a small percentage of sugars
(12-20 gr/l) still remains; in the latter, however, refermentation
is almost complete (max. 15 gr/l), leaving the wine bone dry.
Brut
This is the most modern of the Prosecco wines and it has had great
international success. It is characterized by richer aromas of
citrus fruit and fresh vegetation with pleasant hints of bread crust
showing through, coming together on the palate with an exquisite
gustative energy.
Its fine perlage ensures a persistent taste which is clean on the
palate, making this the sparkling wine par excellence for the table.
It should be served at 7-9° C (44-46° F) and goes well with simple
or elaborate fish and vegetables hors d’oeuvres, first courses of
sea foods and baked fish, or, as is the custom in its production
zone, enjoyed throughout the entire meal.
Extra dry
This is a ‘classic’ Prosecco, the version which combines the vine
variety’s aromatic quality with the exalted sapidity of its fine
bubbles.
The colour is a brilliant straw-yellow enlivened by its perlage
(strands of tiny bubbles). Its aromatic quality is fresh and rich in
fruity aromas of apple and pear with a hint of citrus fruit which
fades into the floral bouquet.
In the mouth it is soft, yet at the same time dry, thanks to its
good acidity.
It makes the perfect aperitif, ideally served at 8-10° C (45-50° F),
and is a good compliment to vegetable soups, sea foods, pasta dishes
with a light meat sauce, fresh cheeses and white meats.
The Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze
This is truly the inimitable embodiment of life’s beautiful
moments.The intensity of its colour signals the complexity of the
ample and inviting aromas that are to follow: from apple to pear,
from apricot to citrus fruit, to rose, with a pleasant note of
glazed almonds on the aftertaste. Produced almost exclusively in its
Dry version (residual sugar of 17-35 grammes per litre), this
sparkling wine makes a good companion to traditional desserts, from
short pastries to fruit tarts, to sweetened ‘focaccia’ (type of flat
soft bread). Cartizze is not only the perfect conclusion to an
important dinner, but also adds to every well-wishing toast and
makes every ceremony more festive.
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